Camco Screw-In Water
This style is used on all new residential water heaters.
Fits most GE, Rheem, Rudd, Richmond, State, Montgomery Ward, Sears/Kenmore, Norge, Westinghouse, Reliance, Noland, AO Smith, Bradford White, GS Wood, Maytag and Duro-Matic water heaters, some Mor-Flo, American and Craftmaster prior to 1991 and all water heaters manufactured after 1994.
Flat and Universal Flange Water Heater Elements
This style is used on older residential water heaters.
Fits most older Mor-Flo, American, most D&R, Craftmaster, some older State, early models of A.O. Smith, Reliance, Rheem, Rudd, Richmond, Montgomery Ward, Norge, Intertherm and Westinghouse models. Fits some Briggs, Bradford-White, U.S. Water Heater, Republic, Day and Night, Jackson, Tennessee Tank and Duro-Matic.
Element Universal Adapter Kit
will adapt a screw-in style element
to a bolt-in style element that can replace the above elements.
|Frequently asked questions about Water Heater Elements
1. How do I know which water heater element to buy?
Consult our Water Heater Element Selection Guide
for help in choosing the correct element for your heater.
2. What causes water heater elements to fail, some sooner than others?
Several reasons: power surges, lightning, dry-firing and lime build-up..
3. Why are some water heater elements folded back?
These are low watt-density (LWD) elements. The heat (watts) per square inch of surface has been lowered by 50% from that of a regular element. In order for total heat to be the same, the total surface has been increased. It is folded back so the length will fit the tank.
4. What are Lime Life elements?
These elements are Premium. They are made of nickel/stainless steel and are ultra low watt-density. These features prevent lime build-up and extend the life of the element. A Lime Life element resists dry-firing. These elements carry a limited 5 year manufacturer's warranty.
5. What is meant by the term “dry-firing?”
High watt density and low watt-density are designed to function in water. If not surrounded by water, the intense heat they generate (dry fire) will cause them to burn out. The water tank must be full of water whenever the power is on. Dry-fire failure is not covered by any warranty. It is a human error. Dry-fired elements are easily detected. The element is soft and easily bent. In most cases, a hole is burned through the surface.
6. Can I replace the element in my water heater with elements with higher wattage?
It is not recommended. The water heater is designed for that element size. Higher wattage might require heavier gauge wire and a larger capacity circuit breaker.
While most water heater repair jobs can be accomplished with some basic tools, time and common sense please keep in mind the following safety considerations. Failure to follow these considerations may result in damage to the water heater or injury to yourself.
1. Always shut off power to the water heater at the electrical service panel (breaker box) before beginning any work. Never attempt to service a water heater without disconnecting power. There is ample voltage and amperage present to seriously injure or kill you.
2. If you are experienced with plumbing and electrical tools, you can do the repairs yourself. If you are at all hesitant, call a plumber or electrician.
3. If you are replacing a water heater element you must drain the tank. Never attempt to replace an element without draining the tank.
4. Never "dry-fire" a water heater element. Water heater elements are designed to operate only in water. Dry-firing an element will destroy the element in a few seconds.
Return to top of page